LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

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Shelf IP.3-T1 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



/ 



HOW TO GROW 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS 



MOST PROFITABLY. 



' BY 
J. PEDERSEN (BJERGAARD), of Denmark, 

AJPJ 

G. H. HOWARD, of Long Island. 



EDITED BY 

W. ATLEE BURPEE. 




U/ £B sy 13 Ig 88 



1 

PUBLISHED BY 
W. ATLEE BUEPEE & CO., Seed Growers, 
Nos. 475 and 477 North Fifth Street. 
Nos. 476 and 478 Yore Avenue, 

PHILADELPHIA. 



Copyrighted, 1888, 
W. ATLEE BURPEE <Sb CO. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Editor's Preface, vii 

How to Grow Cabbages and Cauliflowers most Profitably, 9 

The Best Soil for Cabbages, 10 

The Cabbage Plant is a Greedy Feeder, . . . .11 

Early- Cabbages, ........ 15 

Late Cabbages, ......... 19 

The Cauliflower, 23 

Cauliflowers for Winter Use, . . . . . .34 

Enemies of the Cauliflower, . . . . . . 36 

Packing for Distant Markets, . . . . . .37 

How to Grow Cauliflowers Successfully, .... 39 

Selection of Land, 39 

Making the Seed-Bed and Sowing the Seed, ... 39 
Fertilizers, and How to Apply Them, . . . .40 

Transplanting, ........ 41 

Cultivation, .......... 42 

Tying and Bleaching, ....... 42 

Cutting of Cauliflowers, ....... 43 

Trimming, ......... 43 

Packing, .......... 44 

Conclusion, ......... 45 

How to Grow Cabbages Successfully, . . . . .46 

Selection and Preparation of Land for Early Cabbages, . 46 

Insects, 47 

Cultivation, ......... 48 

Cutting and Marketing, . 48 

Late Cabbage. — Soil and Preparation, .... 48 
iii 



iv CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Planting and Cultivation of Late Cabbage, . . .49 
Marketing, ........ .49 

Varieties of Cabbage, 51 

Extra Early Express, ....... 51 

Earliest Etampes, ........ 52 

Early Jersey Wakefield, ....... 52 

Early Winningstadt, 53 

Early Dwarf Flat Dutch, 54 

Early Summer, . . . .. . . . . .54 

Peerless Early, . . . . . . . . 54 

The Vandergaw, . 56 

Fottler's Brunswick (Short Stem), 58 

Ear.y Bleiehfield Giant, ....... 58 

All Seasons, 59 

Early Deep-Head, , , . . . . . .59 

Burpee's Surehead, . . . . . . . . 60 

Danish Ball Head, . . . . . .61 

Large Late Flat Dutch,- 62 

Large Late Drumhead^ ....... 62 

Louisville Drumhead, ....... 62 

Burpee's Short-Stem Drumhead, . . . . .63 

Filderkraut, 64 

Green Glazed, . . . ; . . . .65 

Marblehead Mammoth, ,«,..... 65 

Early Paris Savoy, 66 

Early Dwarf Ulm Savoy, 66 

Perfection Drumhead Savoy, . . . . . .66 

Early Blood-Red Erfurt, 67 

Large Red Drumhead (Improved Red Dutch), . . .67 

Varieties of Cauliflower, 68 

Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt, . 68 

Large Early White Erfurt, 68 

Early Snowball, 69 



CONTEXTS. V 

PAGE 

Burpee's Best Early Cauliflower, . . . . .69 

Algiers, .......... 71 

Yeitsch's Autumn Griant, . . . . . . .71 

Cauliflowers and Cabbages, 72 

Directions for Cooking and Preparing for the Table, . .72 

Stewed Cauliflower, 72 

Cauliflower au Nature!, ....... 72 

Cauliflower with Brussels Sprouts, ..... 73 

Cauliflower with Parmesan Cheese, . . . . .73 

Cauliflower a la Louis Quatorze, ..... 7-1 

Cauliflower with Oil-Sauce, . . . . . .74 

Cauliflower Pickles, ....... 75 

How to Cook and Prepare Cabbage, . . . . .75 

Browned Cabbage Head, ...... 75 

Stewed Cabbage, 76 

Cabbage with Forced Meat, 76 

Filled Cabbage, 76 

Cabbage au G-ratin, . . . ... . . 77 

Cabbage Dolmas, 78 

Cabbage Callops, 73 

Saurkraut, 73 

How to Make Saurkraut, 79 

Magdeburg Saurkraut, ....... 80 

Quickly Prepared Saurkraut, ...... 81 

Browned Saurkraut, 81 

Stewed Saurkraut, ........ 82 

. Stewed Saurkraut with Cream, . . . . . .82 

Stewed Red Cabbage, 83 

Stewed Savoy Cabbage, ....... 83 

Cauliflower Soup, . . 84 

Cabbage Soup, . . . . ... , . .84 

Plain Cabbage Soup, 85 



EDITOR'S PREFACE. 



The widespread need for complete information 
on the growing and marketing of Cabbages and 
Cauliflowers, has repeatedly been brought to our 
notice by numerous inquiries from farmers and 
gardeners desirous of growing these crops by the 
acre, for market. To answer these inquiries in 
detail by letter was impossible, and in order to 
fully meet the want of adequate information, we 
offered, in Burpee's Farm Annual for 1887, cash 
prizes for the two best essays on the subject. These 
prizes resulted in considerable competition. After 
thorough and careful readings, the first prize was 
awarded to Mr. J. Pedersen (Bjergaard), of Den- 
mark, and the second prize to Mr. G. H. Howard, 
of Suffolk County, L. I. Both of these essays 
are published in this book, together with an Ap- 
pendix upon the cooking of these vegetables, kindly 
furnished by Mr. S. J. Soyer, chief cook to His 
Majesty, the King of Denmark. Mr. Soyer's 
recipes will particularly interest the ladies, and 
will doubtless tend to increase the popularity in 
America of these wholesome and palatable vege- 
tables. 

For the benefit of those of our readers not 
familiar with the best sorts to grow, we have added 

vii 



viii editor's preface. 

an illustrated chapter, giving descriptions of the 
leading varieties of cabbage and cauliflower best 
adapted for culture in the United States. Alto- 
gether we have aimed to make this little " How to 
Grow" treatise complete in every detail. That 
it is a thoroughly trustworthy guide, the reputa- 
tion of the waiters of the prize essays is ample 
assurance. Mr. J. Pedersen, in whose company 
we traveled through Denmark in 1886, seeing 
much of interest in farming and gardening, is a 
well-known writer, and has handled his subject in 
a most comprehensive manner. In some instances 
we have noted where his methods are unnecessarily 
laborious for this country ; but were it not for his 
complete treatment of details, this work would lose 
much of its value. Mr. G. H. Howard, living in 
the very centre of the famous cauliflower district 
of Eastern Long Island, is admitted to be one of 
the most extensive and successful growers of both 
cauliflowers and cabbages in the United States. 
Without any superfluous words, he tells, in a plain, 
practical manner, how to grow these important 
crops, with which he has had marked success for 
many years. 

W. Atlee Burpee. 

January 12th, 1888. 



HOW TO GROW 

Cabbages axd Cauliflowers 

MOST PROFITABLY. 



BY J. PEDEKSEN (BJERGAARD). 

With an Appendix upon the Cooking of these Vegetables, furnished "by 
Mr. S. J. Soyer, Chief Cook to His Majesty the King of Denmark. 

Of the plants that from time immemorial have 
been objects of human husbandry, and cherished 
articles of food for rich and poor, the cabbage 
plant is one of the oldest we know of. For at 
least two thousand years it has been one of the 
most prominent garden crops. The Jews and the 
Egyptians cultivated it, and it is interwoven with 
the myths of the Greeks. One version claimed 
that the cabbage plant sprang up from the sweat 
of Jupiter when once upon a time His Divine Ma- 
jesty was called upon to divine the meaning of 
two contradictory answers by an oracle ; another, 
that Bacchus whipped Lykurgus with a grape 

9 



10 



HOW TO GROW 



vine until he (Lykurgus) shed tears from pain, 
which gave origin to the cabbage, that, in revenge 
against the said Godhead, had the virtue that it 
could make intoxicated persons sober. Pythag- 
oras recommended the cabbage as a means of 
keeping man in "good humor and courage." But 
enough about Grecian legends. The cabbage is 
one of the most extensively and universally con- 
sumed vegetables in this our own day, and, if 
well managed, is a crop that, beside its value for 
the home economy, will yield the skillful grower 
fine, often large, returns as a market crop; this 
concerns us more than Grecian myths about its 
genesis. 

THE BEST SOIL FOR CABBAGES, 

Especially the late varieties, is a cool, clayey 
loam that will retain moisture to some extent; 
and, where choice can be made, a cool position — a 
northern slope, for instance — is to be preferred. 
For early cabbages a somewhat lighter and 
warmer soil is preferable. Although such soils as 
mentioned are the most favorable for cabbage 
growing, considerable modifications of soil will 
answer very well if properly managed. But it 
would be a mistake to attempt to grow cabbages 
on a large scale in decidedly light soils, especially 
if these rest upon a sandy or gravely subsoil. If, 
on the other hand, the subsoil be of a clayey 
character, good crops may often be grown, even 
on rather light soil, with judicious manuring and 
cultivation. On a small scale, for home con- 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



11 



sumption, cabbages may be grown, even if not 
to the highest perfection, in most kinds of soil, 
especially if green manured and supplied with 
superphosphate of lime, guano, ashes, etc., accord- 
ing to the character of the soil. If this be loose 
and light, a partial remedy may be found in a 
compacting and keeping moist of the soil around 
the plants. Mulching with coarse manure, sea 
weed or the like will also have a good effect on 
unretentive soils. The more removed the char- 
acter of the soil is from the cabbage soil par 
excellence, as described above, the more important 
it is that only the surest heading varieties of 
cabbage be grown. 

THE CABBAGE PLAXT IS A GREEDY FEEDER, 

And there has hardly ever been a case in which 
a crop has been spoiled by too heavy manuring. 
The early crops, especially, require very great 
quantities of manure in order that they may be 
hurried through to perfection and maturity in 
the shortest possible time, so as to give room for 
second crops of such kinds as the locality and 
market render most lucrative or private wants 
may call for. Seventy or eighty large two-horse 
loads of good rich stable manure to the acre is 
none too much for early cabbages, if no artificial 
manure be applied. The late varieties, when they 
follow after richly-manured first crops, do not 
require such heavy special manuring, as they 
have a longer time in which to grow and search 



12 



HOW TO GROW 



for food in a wider range of ground. If the soil 
has been left in good, rich condition by the pre- 
ceding crop, forty or fifty two-horse loads of good 
stable manure will secure a fine, large crop of late 
cabbages, if the other conditions be fairly favor- 
able. Any kind of readily soluble manure may 
be turned to good advantage by cabbages. On 
the lighter soils, not naturally well adapted for 
growing cabbage, cow and pig dung, owing to 
their more consistent character and retentiveness 
of moisture, may be used to great advantage. 
The various artificial manures, especially super- 
phosphate of lime, bone flour and guano, and 
poudrette (or dry prepared human excrements), 
liberally applied, will wonderfully increase the 
quantity and quality of the cabbage crop. 

I have this year growing a lot of cabbages, the 
grandest any one could wish to look at, on a piece 
of ground that has received no manure at all, 
natural or artificial, from my hands; but the 
secret is this, that the ground in question for a 
couple of years had been a roaming place for my 
poultry. The soil was previously a rather im- 
poverished, dead, clayey field, having received no 
manure for years. The luxuriant growth of the 
cabbages and cauliflowers this first year of using 
the ground for gardening purposes is due to the 
random droppings of the fowls during the pre- 
ceding two or three years — the birds not having 
even been exclusively confined to the ground 
in question — and to a thorough, deep digging 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



13 



of the soil, loosening the stiff subsoil, and a 
frequent stirring of the surface. The great value 
of poultry clung is thus demonstrated, and this is 
an item not to be left out in the calculation when 
the question is one of profitable poultry keeping 
and the growing of high-class garden products. 

Of course, the broadcast, liberal manuring 
system is to be recommended when the object is 
not only to grow a single fine crop, but to in- 
crease the fertility of soil for following crops. 
As for some of the artificial manures, however, 
especially such as those in which the most valu- 
able ingredients are either rather volatile or easily 
soluble, the greatest advantage of their use will be 
had by applying them at the planting places, mix- 
ing them well with the soil to the extent to which 
the roots of the plants will be likely to reach. By 
this mode of application a certain quantity of 
manure will go much further than if sown broad- 
cast: nothing will be wasted, and perhaps the 
greatest advantage of the dropping system is the 
thorough disintegration of the soil incident to the 
mixing with it of the manure, thus making a bed 
in which the plants can most readily throw out 
a network of fibrous, active roots,, that will find 
rich nourishment in their immediate vicinity, 
wherever they stray. Such extra preparation of 
the soil and thorough intermixing of finely- 
divided fertilizing substances will pay well for the 
extra work and care, and it requires but little 
practice and adroitness to accomplish this work 



14 



HOW TO GROW 



very quickly by simple means. If you wish to 
grow extra fine products and reap the profits 
thereof, try it. This may be a hint for some one, 
also, who might wish to grow some favorite plant 
for which his soil is not naturally favorable. By 
making a compost heap containing the elements 
required by such a plant, and applying the mix- 
ture of prepared soil and fertilizers as stated, no 
one need despair of growing, to some extent, any 
kind of plant within the range of the climate, be 
his soil as it may. If late cabbages be planted 
after the plowing under of some heavy green 
crop at the proper stage of development (when 
the plants begin to flower), a luxuriant clover-sod, 
for instance, or winter rye, or a spring-sown mix- 
ture of oats, peas, vetches or the like, but a mod- 
erate quantity of additional manuring is needed 
for growing a fine crop of cabbages ; but it must 
always be borne in mind that the richer the 
ground is manured, the larger and better the crop of 
cabbages, and the better the ground is left for 
coming crops. 

It will in many cases be found advantageous, 
when the work can be accomplished, to water 
thoroughly with fluid manure, dissolved excre- 
mental matter of any kind, well diluted, so as not 
to burn the plants, or well-rotted, easily dis- 
solved substances. Such watering, if the solu- 
tion be very strong, had better be done during, 
or immediately before or after, a rain. In cases of 
drouth, the effect of such help will, of course, be 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



15 



most striking, but care must then, as already 
stated, be exercised that the .solution be well 
diluted — as fluid as water, and of color like very 
strong tea. 

The soil for cabbages must be deeply cultivated and 
the subsoil be turned or broken if very hard or clayey. 
A frequent stirring of the surface of the ground will 
at the same time keep the weeds down and admit air 
and moisture, so essential for the solution and assimi- 
lation by the plants of the nourishing elements in the 
soil, 

EAELY CABBAGES. 
When a favorable soil in a high state of fertility 
is combined with a good market, not too distant, 
early cabbages will be found to be one of the 
most important farm-garden crops. The soil and 
manure question have already been treated of 
above. The vital point in growing early cabbages 
for marketing is to force the crop to early market- 
able condition, so as, on the one hand, to reap the 
advantage of being among the first in the market 
and securing the higher prices that are always 
obtained for extra early garden products of first- 
class quality, and, on the other hand, to have the 
ground cleared as early as possible for second crops. 
It will in many cases be of advantage to keep up a 
succession either by repeated plantings of the same 
variety, or by growing a variety of sorts with dif- 
ferent degrees of earliness in maturing ; the latter 
method is generally preferable. The inexperi- 
enced grower will do well by trying both ways, in 



16 



HOW TO GROW 



order to ascertain which, for his soil, market and 
circumstances, is the best. Practical hints from 
the experience of others are valuable, but to some 
extent every one must think and try for himself, 
and modify general rules by his private circum- 
stances. This is especially the case with regard to 
the choice of varieties. While some varieties may 
be so well tested in the most different soils and 
localities, and under the most varying conditions, 
as to be fully assured of their different qualities, 
there may be others which nothing but personal 
and repeated trials under varying conditions can 
decide the value. The wide-awake grower will 
ever have his attention directed to the discovery 
for himself of varieties, new or old, which are most 
suitable and remunerative under his individual 
circumstances. 

TJiere are two ways of starting early cabbage plants: 
Sowing in the fall, by the middle of September, in 
northern localities, in well-prepared soil, and win- 
tering over in cold frames, or, if for some reason 
this should not be convenient, the seed may be 
sown by the middle of February or early in March, 
in hotbeds of moderate temperature (the ther- 
mometer showing 50-60 degrees when placed in 
the centre of the bed, which should have about 
three inches of earth over the manure), and 
transplanted into boxes when the second leaf 
is out. A second transplanting into cold frames, 
to harden off the plants before planting out, is 
recommended, as it makes the plants more robust 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



17 



and hardy. If it is desired to avoid this second 
transplanting, the plants, at the pricking out in 
boxes, must be given abundant space, so as not to 
crowd and draw up spindling, and the boxes must 
be placed in cold frames for hardening off, for some 
time before the plants are to be set out.* When 
carefully managed, such hot-bed grown and hard- 
ened plants will be as good every way as those 
sown in the fall and wintered over in cold frames, 
and they may be ready to set out as early, and 
then the care and labor are concentrated within a 
shorter time. 

Any forcing of the plants must be avoided by 
keeping the temperature down within the proper 
boundaries — not higher than above stated. By 
such regulated, moderate growth, the plants will 
be in proper condition for planting out about six 
or seven weeks after the sowing of the seed. It is 
advisable to moisten the ground before the plants 
are pulled or, better, lifted, for transplanting, in 
order to make the earth adhere to the roots. 

The plants grown in either of the above two 
ways, if stocky and well hardened, as they should 
be, may, or rather should, be planted out as soon 
as the ground can be worked. If the plants be 



* This operation as here given is too elaborate for practical use in 
this country. The seed should either be sown thinly, which can be 
done by sowing drills to be thinned out in the row if it should come 
up too thickly, and hardened by taking the sash off when large enough, 
or they should be transplanted at once into the cold frames without 
the use of the boxes. — Ed. 
2 



18 



HOW TO GROW 



set deep and firm, they will not be injured even 
by rather severe weather after planting. Eighteen 
inches apart either way will be sufficient space for 
most varieties of early cabbage, but for convenience 
of cultivating with horse power, thirty inches 
between the rows may be advisable and sixteen or 
eighteen inches between the plants in the rows 
will afford room for about 10.000 or 11,000 plants 
to the acre. 

The soil should be put in the best possible state 
of preparation immediately before planting. If 
the roots of the plants be " puddled " in a mixture 
of cow dung, clay and water, of a consistency of 
thick paint, the plants will be much more certain 
to grow, and no watering will be needed even if 
the weather be dry. A reserve of plants should 
be kept to fill out empty spaces if some of the 
plants first set out should fail to grow. 

To bring the highest price the crop should be 
marketed as early as possible, the heads be solid 
and well shaped, and the more uniform in size 
the better. Early cabbages are generally cut off 
with a few of the inner leaves adhering to the 
heads, which improves their appearance. If they 
are to be taken in wagons to a near market, the 
heads are to be cut off early in the morning while 
the dew is on. For a more distant market, when 
they are to be sent in crates or ventilated barrels, 
they had better be cut late in the afternoon, before 
dew-fall, as moisture will soon spoil them, and the 
barrels should be kept protected against the sun. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



19 



Pack very compactly and snugly, using only neat, 
clean packing material — a good appearance is of 
the greatest importance, if you wish to secure an 
extra good price.* Label or mark carefully, and 
if you employ a commission merchant, advise him 
fully by a preceding mail of what you send and 
by what train or boat it is shipped ; a duplicate 
being kept to guard against accidental loss, and 
for reference when settlements are made. 

LATE CABBAGES 

Require the same conditions of soil, etc., as the 
early varieties. Having more time for their 
development, however, late cabbages do not 
require such heavy manuring as the early crop. 
If grown as a second crop after early potatoes, 
lettuce, peas, beets, radishes, spinach, etc., the 
heavy manuring that these crops will have 
received to bring them quickly forward will gen- 
erally suffice also for the late cabbage crop. But 
the late as well as the early varieties of cabbage 
will pay well for extra heavy manuring, which at 
the same time will leave the ground in most 
excellent condition for following crops. A good 
dressing of unleached wood ashes has a striking 
effect on cabbages, both early and late, and beside 
stimulating growth will destroy a great many 



* The directions for packing as here given are unnecessarily elabo- 
rate, the custom in this country being to pack the heads tightly in 
barrels, no packing being used, as the spaces between the heads pro- 
mote a free circulation of air. — En. 



20 



HOW TO GKOW 



grubs. Of the advantage of green manuring and 
the application of various artificial manures men- 
tion has already been made in this essay. 

Seed for late cabbage should be sown in the first 
part of May — several sowings may be advisable — 
in a fresh turned, well prepared, light and moder- 
ately rich soil, in drills an inch and a half deep 
and eight or ten inches apart. After covering the 
seed with the rake, press or roll the ground so as to 
make the soil pack well around the seeds. If the 
soil be rather dry, it may be advisable to give it a 
soaking some time before it is to be prepared for 
the seed. The sowing of some air-slaked lime 
upon the seed beds when the sprouts begin to push 
through, and again when the plants are fairly 
over the ground, will keep off the cabbage-flea, 
which otherwise will often destroy whole beds of 
plants. If the plants be pricked out before the 
final transplanting, this will encourage the devel- 
opment of a network of the fibrous roots so essen- 
tial for a thrifty growth of the plants at the 
usually dry season when the transplanting has to 
be done, viz., in the latter part of June for the 
medium late sorts, and in the course of July for 
the winter cabbages proper. 

The ground for late cabbages should be kept 
ready to take advantage of a possible rain for the 
transplanting of the young plants. As rain, how- 
ever, is not to be depended upon at this time of 
the year, the next best thing is to " puddle " the 
roots, as stated for early cabbages, and plant 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



21 



toward evening in fresh turned, thoroughly pre- 
pared soil, setting the plants deep and pressing 
the soil firmly round the roots. 

The distance between the plants ought to be 
30x30 inches, or the rows for more easy cultiva- 
tion by horse power may be three feet apart and 
the distance between the plants in the rows two 
feet. 

Keep the soil between the rows loose and free 
from weeds by use of the horse hoe or the corn 
plow. Immediately around the plants the hand 
hoe should occasionally be used, to keep the 
ground loose and porous. A handful or more of 
superphosphate of lime hoed 4 in around each 
plant, when about one-third grown or a little 
earlier, will have a strikingly beneficial effect on 
the thriftiness of the plants. 

The keeping of the plants in healthy thrift by 
heavy manuring and good tillage is the best 
remedy against cabbage lice, which during long 
dry spells, in many seasons, cause great damage 
to the cabbage crop. Some salt strewn on the 
cabbage has also a good effect for keeping off de- 
structive vermin, and so have ashes thrown upon 
the cabbages. A large grain of salt dropped in 
the centre of the leaves, when the plants are of 
proper size for beginning to head, is said to 
induce a disposition for heading in plants that 
seem indisposed to form heads. I have not ascer- 
tained whether there is any truth in this saying ; 
it might be worth trying. 



22 



HOW TO GROW 



The late cabbage crop is, upon the whole, very 
easily managed, and it is not only desirable to 
have a good supply of sure-heading, good-keeping 
varieties for one's own family use during the 
winter and early spring, but in many localities 
and seasons it will prove a very good paying crop 
to grow on a large scale for market. It affords 
me particular pleasure, in this connection, to call 
attention to the superior value of the "Danish 
Ball-Head," and a quite new variety, the " Mata- 
dor," which in my trial grounds, embracing 
upward of a score of the most popular American 
and European varieties, distinguish themselves 
in a striking degree by their wonderfully solid 
character, every plant having headed, and the 
heads being so firm that they do not yield in the 
least to a very hard pressure ; both are literally 
" as hard as a stone " as it is possible for a cab- 
bage-head to be, and no other cabbage at present 
known will, I think, be able to compete with them 
for keeping quality, none are better fitted for ship- 
ping long distances, and none have a milder, 
sweeter or richer taste. The " Matador " combines 
with these excellent qualities a very large size. 
The weight of the heads in proportion to their 
dimensions is astonishing. A representative 
plant will be sent to Messrs. Burpee & Co., who 
may then judge for themselves. If shipping cab- 
bages South from the Northern States in America 
will pay at all, then it will certainly be a lucrative 
enterprise to grow varieties like the two just men- 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEKS. 



23 



tioned for the purpose. At any rate, every one 
who grows or uses cabbages will no doubt be 
much pleased with a trial, large or small, of both 
varieties named.* 

Fearing that this essay may take up too much 
space, I shall withhold my observations about the 
other varieties with which I have made experi- 
ment. 

THE CAULIFLOWER. 

Of the very large cabbage genus, there is 
nothing that will compare in delicacy with the 
cauliflower. But few vegetables are so extensively 
used and so universally relished by all, from the 
prince to the laboring man who lives from hand 
to mouth and knows but few luxuries. Besides 
being savory when prepared in the different ways 
taught by the cook's art, it is richer in nourishing 
elements than most other vegetables. A garden 
without its patch with a succession of cauliflowers 
is very incomplete indeed. Many people think 
it so difficult to grow cauliflowers successfully that 
they have never made the attempt. Others have 
never tasted this delicious, healthful and nourish- 



* We have grown the Danish Ball-Head in our trial grounds the 
past season, and find it a reliable heading variety, with hard, round 
heads, which, however, were with us smaller in size than the American 
Standard for late cabbages. We have just received (Nov. 23d, 1887) 
the plant of Matador from Mr. Pedersen, and it is certainly a very 
handsome head of cabbage. So many European varieties, however, 
on extensive trial prove inferior to our American Strains, that we 
cannot give an opinion as to its value until we have thoroughly tested 
it under varying conditions. — Ed. 



24 



HOW TO GROW 



ing vegetable, and know nut of what enjoyment 
they are depriving themselves by omitting it in 
their bill of fare, at least occasionally, for a 
change. To such I would say. just study the 
following simple instructions about the growing, 
and the directions later on for cooking the cauli- 
flower, and be persuaded to try them. Many a 
market gardener finds the cauliflower, skillfully 
managed, one of the most valuable of his crops. 
It is one of those delicious vegetables of which we 
never tire, that will fit into almost any bill of fare, 
prepared in its different ways, and for which, 
therefore, the demand is always extraordinarily 
great, frequently far outbalancing the supply and 
forcing the price up to a very pleasant figure for 
the wide-awake and skillful grower. 

A strong, fertile, well-worked soil with a moist, 
retentive subsoil, and a position freely exposed to air 
and sun. are the conditions under which the cauli- 
flower will luxuriate, and in the higher degree 
these conditions are at hand or can be arranged 
by artificial means, the more certain will be the 
success with cauliflowers. The consumption of 
water by this vegetable, when in thrifty growth, 
is very great. Hence the necessity of regular, 
thorough watering, if there be not sufficient 
moisture in the subsoil accessible to the roots, 
when the surface soil gets too dry. As a matter 
of course, lowland, especially if it can be irrigated, 
and the soil be good for the purpose, in a high 
state of fertility, and not too light, will be most 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



25 



suitable for growing cauliflowers to perfection. 
Conveniences for artificial watering are, it will be 
understood, of great advantage, especially in years 
of drouth. The success with cauliflowers depends, 
however, greatly upon the right choice of varieties. 
This year, for instance, we have in this country 
suffered from drouth to an extent not known of 
for the last score of years, and yet I have seen 
a surprisingly grand field of cauliflowers, of an 
improved strain of the early dwarf Erfurt variety, 
grown in a stiff, clayey soil, very dry in the sur- 
face, not in the best state of cultivation, and with- 
out any artificial watering whatever. The roots 
of the plants were "puddled" when planted out; 
that was all. I do not believe that seven per cent., 
perhaps not five, of the said field of thirty or forty 
thousand plants failed to make fine, large, solid, 
beautifully white and typical heads. Other varie- 
ties have either utterly failed or made stunted, 
imperfectly developed heads. 

As already stated, the soil for cauliflowers should 
be very rich, but it is not advisable to use fresh 
stable manure, as this promotes attacks of larvse 
on the roots. Well-rotted manure will answer 
very well, but the best results are generally 
obtained by a liberal application of water-closet 
contents or other fluid manure immediately before 
the digging of the ground. A handful or two of 
lime flour stirred well into the soil at each planting 
place is greatly to be recommended. It prevents, or 
tends to prevent, attacks of grubs or larvae on the 



26 



HOW TO GROW 



roots, and in soils not rich in lime promotes the 
thriftiness of the plants. Superphosphate of lime 
and guano or poultry dung, soot and ashes are all 
most excellent fertilizing substances. Watering 
with fluid manure and lye after the plants are 
well started will have a very beneficial effect; but 
such fluid manuring should either be performed 
after a rain or the ground should previously be 
well watered with water from a pond, or such as 
otherwise has been exposed to the sun for some 
time, so as to be slightly warmed. 

The preparation of the soil and the treatment 
of the crop, upon the whole, are much the same as 
for early cabbages, of which we have already 
treated. As the roots, however, run very near the 
surface, the cultivation after transplanting must 
be confined to a superficial breaking of the soil, 
if it gets crusty, and to the keeping clean of weeds. 
Some good, loose compost soil placed immediately 
around each plant, when one-third or half grown, 
will be of great benefit to the plants, especially 
if the soil be very clayey and disposed to bake. If 
artificial watering be resorted to, such surface 
covering will help to retain a congenial moisture 
about the roots, and do the same service to the 
cauliflower that hoeing does to cabbages and other 
plants. 

Intense heat and drouth being a great obstacle 
to the growth and normal fine development of 
the cauliflower, the best success is attained when 
the crop is advanced ahead of the most dangerous 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS 



27 



hot weather ; or, again, put in late, when the in- 
tense heat is past. At the latter period, unless it 
be very late in the season, the soil will be liable to 
be rather dry, and it will then especially be neces- 
sary to be prepared for artificial watering, at least 
until the plants have got a good start. With a 
proper understanding of the wants of this delicious 
and valuable vegetable, it will in most cases be 
possible at least to grow a small patch of cauli- 
flowers for one's own family use, and perhaps a 
few for special friends, if we should not desire to 
make a business with what can be spared from 
our own table. 

If a full success, few if any vegetables grown for 
the market on a large scale will yield as high a 
net profit as the cauliflower, but it would not be 
safe to expect a complete success unless the requi- 
site conditions are at command. To make experi- 
ments on a small scale, trying to make the best 
of one's private circumstances, is quite a different 
thing. 

For the earliest forcing of cauliflowers the seed is 
sown in September, not too thickly, in a well-pre- 
pared, not too heavy nor too rich soil, in a shel- 
tered situation. Sowing in drills about two inches 
apart is recommended. It may be a good plan to 
sow in boxes, as these can be easily removed to a 
shady or cooler place and kept dry or wet as need 
may be, the object being to keep the plant healthy, 
stocky and slowly growing. An admixture of 
coarse sand to the soil will induce the formation 



28 



HOW TO GROW 



of fibrous roots and help to retard the growth of 
the plants. When the young plants have put 
forth their second leaf they are to be pricked out 
for wintering over in cold frames, either direct or 
in pots or boxes, in a similar sand-mixed soil as 
recommended for starting the plants, each plant 
being allowed three inches square of space. The 
plants are to be kept perfectly dry with free access 
of light and air, and protected against frost. When- 
ever the weather will allow, the sashes must be 
partly or wholly removed in the daytime. 

Large fine cauliflower heads may be had early in 
May by proceeding as follows : About the fifteenth 
or in the latter part of November, prepare a hot- 
bed of half each of fresh cow and horse dung, 
thrown into a heap for six to eight days, and in 
frosty weather protected with some straw or other 
suitable and convenient material. Then com- 
mence spreading the dung in layers, treading it 
firmly, and proceed until the bed has a depth of 
two feet or two and a half. Put on the frame and 
sash; leave about a week, airing occasionally. 
Then put on ten inches of good, rich soil. In a 
bed, four feet wide and four feet six inches long, 
plant eight plants in quincunx fashion, in three 
rows, respectively three, two and three in each 
row, thus : — 

* * * 

Give as much air as the weather will permit. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 29 



Toward spring, the soil must be kept moist. In- 
stead of hoeing the plants, it is advisable to add 
earth in the box until it reaches the lowest 
leaf stalk. In order to give more room to the 
plants, another frame, twelve to fourteen inches 
wider and two feet ten inches high, is put on the 
bed instead of the original one, in the beginning 
of March. The nearer spring advances the more 
the plants must be exposed to the open air as 
much as possible, while care must be exercised to 
protect with shutters and straw mats, nights, and 
in severe weather in the daytime. A secondary 
use may be made of the spaces between the cauli- 
flower plants by sowing lettuce, radishes, cress, or 
any other desirable and suitable vegetable. While 
a limited quantity of cauliflowers may be grown 
in this way with satisfaction, and probably good 
profit, as extraordinarily early and fine heads will 
command fancy prices in almost any market, the 
bulk of plants for a very early forced crop are most 
conveniently kept in the cold frames until early in 
February, when they are transplanted to a hotbed 
made of fresh horse dung mixed with leaves, to 
insure a steady, enduring heat. The covering of 
earth on the manure must be at least ten inches 
deep. Two parts of ordinary good field soil, one 
part of leaf mould, one part of sand and one part 
of rich, old manure, will be a good mixture for 
this purpose. The plants are set deeply, a depres- 
sion in the soil being left round each plant, which 
hollow is later on filled up by adding earth to 



30 



HOW TO GROW 



take the place of a hoeing. The spaces between 
the cauliflower plants will be available for second- 
ary crops. When these are removed, a layer of 
earth is added over the entire surface of the bed. 

All the time during the forcing the tempera- 
ture is kept at fifty -five degrees, Fahr., and the air 
freely admitted, whereby the dangerous moisture 
is removed. Arrangement for ventilation when the 
sashes or shutters are on ? in the nights and during 
severe weather, must be made. After transplant- 
ing to the hotbed, little or no water is given until 
the plants have made a good start ; when they 
must be freely watered, and as soon as the heads 
begin to form, fluid manure, dissolved poultry 
dung, for instance, is to be applied, followed by an 
abundant sprinkling with water. The frames are 
lifted as the growth of the plants may require, and 
the spaces under the frames thereby arising are 
filled up with earth or turf. It is convenient to 
have additional frames, which may be of lighter 
material, to put on the top of the original frames, 
when these cannot be lifted any more, and the 
leaves of the plants touch the glass. If no such 
extra frames are at hand, the sashes must be lifted 
by means of some bricks or the like. During 
mild, rainy, or cloudy weather and on warm 
nights, the sashes are removed, while they are 
kept on in sunshine and windy weather, to prevent 
drying out. 

All along, as the heads begin to form, a leaf or 
two should be broken over to cover them, to keep 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS 



31 



them from exposure to the light, which would 
make them dark and loose. The heads must be 
cut in the morning, while the air is cool and fresh 
and the night dew covers the plant. They will 
then keep much longer in good, fresh condition 
than when cut later in the day. 

For cauliflowers in the open around, the first 
sowing is made in hotbed in the months of 
February and March, according to the locality, 
and after the plants have been pricked out and 
hardened by exposure, they are transplanted in 
April, or as early as safe, to a sheltered place facing 
the south, or any other warm situation. Another 
sowing may be made, also in hotbed, a fortnight 
later, to keep up a supply. Or if two varieties — 
an early and a medium early — be sown at the 
same time, monthly periods for repeated sowings 
will furnish a pretty steady supply, the plants 
coming to maturity and heading gradually. As 
soon as the soil can be worked in spring, seed may 
be sown in sunny, sheltered situations. Good 
seed, well matured and properly treated during 
the curing and drying process, germinates very 
readily at a pretty low temperature, and gives 
robust and powerful plants that can be easily 
managed, and with a very slight protection, such 
as every reflecting grower will readily find means 
to afford, may be carried through the most dan- 
gerous period of early spring with comparative 
ease. 

For the family garden, plants may be started 



32 



HOW TO GROW 



quite early in boxes or flower pots in the house 
or conservatory. A bay window or a closed ve- 
randa, well exposed to the sun, may be made to 
do great service in starting early plants. As for 
the pricking out and treatment, the instructions 
given under the head cf forcing, with regard to 
distance, temperature, airing, etc., must be kept 
in mind. The object must be to keep the plants 
slowly growing, stocky and strong, until it is safe 
to transplant into the open ground. This is 
attained by starting the plants in a light, sandy 
soil, watering sparingly, airing freely, keeping the 
temperature moderate, and leaving sufficient space, 
so that each plant may be well exposed to the 
light. If the light only comes from one side, the 
plants will be liable to "draw/ 3 which must be 
avoided by occasionallv turnino; the boxes. 

In addition to what has already been said about 
manuring, I wish to call attention to experiments 
made with phosphoric acid manure, which indi- 
cate a decidedly good effect of such manure upon 
the development of the cauliflower. The areas 
subject to the experiment were each of the size of 
one " are," about one thousand square feet, of 
which the one patch was manured with 73 kilo- 
grams of the phosphoric acid manure, and the 
other with 3000 kilograms of good compost earth.* 
The plants subject to the former treatment grew 



* The are is about one forty-fifth of an acre. Seventy-five kilo- 
grams is equal to 165 pounds avoirdupois. The 3000 kilograms of 
compost would be about three tons or two-horse wagon loads. — Ed. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



33 



luxuriantly and formed fine heads, ten to twelve 
inches in diameter, and but four or five per cent, 
of the plants failed to produce heads, while on the 
patch that received the compost manure, twenty- 
five or thirty per cent, failed, and the rest of the 
plants developed slowly, comparatively, and only 
yielded heads of six to eight inches diameter. It 
is, probably, in a great measure owing to this 
strong effect of phosphoric acid that poultry and 
pigeon dung, which contain considerable quan- 
tities of this element, are so very beneficial for the 
development of the cauliflower. 

Cauliflowers may be had until New Year's by 
sowing seed of the dwarf Erfurt variety in the 
latter part of July or early in August. The plants 
will then begin to form heads in October, and 
when transplanted, with a lump of soil adhering, 
into a light place in a vegetable cellar, the heads 
will develop in the course of a month or two. The 
heads will not be large, but solid and of good 
quality. 

A new variety of large, late cauliflower, originated 
in these northern regions, and which I propose 
to name Baltic Giant, is very hardy, of robust 
growth, and produces very large and solid, 
dazzling white flower heads. A friend of mine 
writes from the Baltic island of Bornholm that 
in mild seasons he has left this splendid late 
variety in the open ground as late as Christmas, 
only protected by a leaf or two bent over the 
heads to keep them from exposure to the light, in 



34 



HOW TO GROTF 



order to preserve the beautiful white color and 
the tenderness of the buds. Left on the root in 
the field, this variety, my Bornholm friend writes, 
will stand two or three degrees of frost without 
injury.* 

CAULIFLOWERS FOE WINTER USE, 

A practical and convenient method of preserving 
cauliflowers until late in the winter is to make beds 
of moist sand, four inches deep, in a cool room, 
protected against frost, and the floor of which had 
better be of asphalt, cement or the like. Toward 
the close of the fall the plants are cut off with a 
piece of stalk about three or four inches in length, 
which are stuck into the sand bed, after all the 
leaves have been removed, with the exception of 
the inner course, which must be pretty closely cut 
down, and the heads covered with flower pots, 
A space of twelve feet square will in this manner 
contain 250 plants or upward, as the size may be, 
when placed close together. 

None but the best matured, cured and kept seeds of 
the most select stock will produce plants of the highest 
perfection. This is a self-evident truth, that holds 
more or less throughout the whole range of plants 
subject to cultivation in garden or field ; but in no 
other case is it of greater importance to act upon 



* We have ordered some of this seed from Mr. Pedersen, and shall 
have it thoroughly tested, both in our own trial grounds and by growers 
in the famous cauliflower district of Eastern Long Island. The result 
we hope to announce in Burpee's Farm Annual fop. 1389. — Ed. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



35 



this truth than in the choice of cauliflower seed. 
Few garden crops, if any, will yield so great 
returns as the cauliflower when the maximum of 
success is attained ; but even the most suitable 
•soil, the most skillful cultivation and the most 
favorable weather, cannot accomplish this if a 
careful choice of seeds be neglected. As you sow^ 
you will reap. The cauliflower, especially the 
most costly and valuable varieties of the early 
dwarf Erfurt type, is of all garden plants one of the 
most liable to deviate and deteriorate, unless never- 
ceasing, scrupulous care be exercised in select- 
ing plants for stock seed. Even the originally 
best stock will soon " run out " if the requisite 
skill and care in the growing of the seed be not 
continually observed. 

Considering how many plants may be grown 
from an ounce of good cauliflower seed (about 
three thousand), and that the average quality of 
these plants will be in a fixed relation to their 
pedigree — to their original type being kept strictly 
up and even improved through generations, 
under most favorable circumstances, or, on the 
other hand, by neglect allowed to deteriorate — it 
will be evident, on a moment's thought, that the 
best obtainable seed, not only of strong vitality, 
but of the purest and best stock, is absolutely the 
cheapest. Just calculate what even but one or 
two cents more or less per head amounts to for the 
plants grown from an ounce, or five or ten ounces, 
of seed ! But the difference between the very best 



36 



HOW TO GROW 



and moderately good seed may in some seasons 
amount to complete success in the one case, and 
total failure and chagrin in the other. 

ENEMIES OF THE CAULIFLOWER. 

Young seedlings of the cauliflower are, like other 
plants of the family to which it belongs, subject to 
attacks by ground fleas, the best remedy against 
which is moisture. Dusting with powdered tobacco 
has a good effect. The exhalation of ammoniacal 
fumes from the decaying dung protects the plants 
against this enemy as long as they remain in the 
hotbed. After planting out, the roots and root 
stalk are often harassed by various larvse, which 
either hollow out the stalk and main roots and 
cause the plant to rot or wilt, or occasion swellings 
at the root head, which prevent the free circulation 
of the sap. A liberal admixture of caustic lime 
dust to the soil in a circle round the plants is a 
good preventive against these latter pests. Super- 
phosphate of lime, so directly beneficial to a 
healthy and robust growth of the cauliflower and 
cabbages, will no doubt answer the purpose. Sifted 
coal ashes and ashes, upon the whole, have a pro- 
tective influence, both when intermixed with the 
soil or applied to the leaves. Some radishes sown 
between the plants seem to attract various larvse 
and insects, and thus serve as an easy preventive 
against several pests. Plants attacked in any way 
ought at once to be removed, to prevent their 
becoming a nursery for spreading the pests. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 37 



In the summer and fall the cabbage and the 
beet butterfly will deposit their eggs on the leaves 
of the plants, where they develop into the so- 
called cabbage worms. These eggs are generally 
laid in lumps and easily discovered and crushed. 
In an old German magazine I have just found 
the following remedy, which may be worth try- 
ing: In four or five quarts of warm water is 
dissolved a handful of rock salt, and a few finely 
crushed or pounded garlics are added. With 
this mixture the plants visited by the butterflies 
are sprinkled with a brush, a wisp of grass, or 
grain straws, or by any other means. The sprink- 
ling must be performed after the dew has evapo- 
rated. Cabbages may experimentally be treated 
in the same way.* 

For immediate sale in a neighboring town the 
cauliflower heads should be cut early in the morn- 
ing while the dew is on, and be kept protected 
against the sun until they are to be exposed for 
sale. 

PACKING FOR DISTANT MARKETS. 

The heads are to be cut off in a dry state, but 
not wilted, with only an inch of stalk. The leaves 
are. to be removed, with the exception of a couple 
of the inner courses, which should be cut down to 
such a length as to meet when they are bent gently 
together over the head. Pack in open, clean and 



-Alum water used in this manner has proved efficacious the past 
season, under our own observation. — Ed. 



38 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



neat-looking crates or boxes, in the bottom of which 
put a few leaves and on these the cauliflower 
heads, which should be of a uniform size for each 
crate. Pack closely and firmly in layers, taking 
care, however, not to bruise the tender buds. All 
the heads in a layer should turn in the same 
direction, being laid sidewise, and the next layer 
in the opposite direction, respectively, with top 
and stem. On the top of the heads fill in with 
leaves until the cover will press the whole contents 
so tight as to prevent the heads from moving 
during the transportation. 

Label the crates neatly, stating the contents on 
each crate separately. Immediately in advance 
of a shipment send your commission house a 
detailed list of what you are about to send or 
already have delivered at the express office, steam- 
boat, etc., stating, also, in your letter of advice, 
by what train or steamer the goods will be sent. 
The observation of the above rules will greatly 
help to secure for the shipper the quickest sale 
and the highest price that the state of the market 
will allow. 



HOW TO GROW 
CAULIFLOWERS SUCCESSFULLY. 

BY G. H. HOWARD, 
Of Suffolk County, Long Island. 



SELECTION OF LAND. 

To grow cauliflower successfully it is necessary 
to have good loam, or sandy loam with the loam 
predominating. Take a piece of land that has been 
in pasture for two years or more. Plow as early 
as the first of May, and not less than eight inches 
in depth, turning over as level as possible. The 
idea of plowing early is to preserve the moisture, 
also to give plenty of time for w T orking the land 
into good shape before setting the plants. After 
the plowing is done, take a wheel harrow and cut 
it up well, going crosswise first, then afterward 
making it as fine as possible with any good 
smoothing harrow. 

MAKING THE SEED-BED AND SOWING THE SEED. 
Commence on one side, and at the end of the 
field, and sow two ounces of Erfurt or Snowball, and 
one and a half ounces Algiers for every acre that is 
to be put out. These are the only kinds used in 
the great cauliflower district of Eastern Long 
Island, where thousands of acres are raised every 

39 



40 



HOW TO GROW 



year. This seed-bed should be nicely made. Rake 
in some fertilizer : be careful not to use it too 
heavily, for it may burn them if very strong. It 
is safest to do the sowing by hand. Take a tin 
box, about an inch and a half in diameter, and 
make two holes in the bottom, one for Erfurt and 
one for Algiers ; plug the one you do not wish to 
use, then put in some seed, and put on the cover, 
and shake it along the rows ; it works quickly 
and well, if the holes are of the right size.* Sow 
the seed about three-quarters of an inch deep, and 
sow the Erfurt more thickly than the Algiers. 
Before the plants crack the ground there should 
be a good supply of tobacco dust at hand ; the 
finest is the best and cheapest. This is the best 
preventive for that destructive little bug known 
among cauliflower growers as the "Jack." The 
tobacco dust should be applied very freely the 
first week or two. Put it on while the dew is on 
the plants and after a rain. It takes about six 
weeks for the plants to grow to the right size for 
transplanting. 

FERTILIZERS. AND HOW TO APPLY THEM. 

About three weeks before the time for trans- 
planting, the fertilizers should all be applied, 



* This idea of making the sowing quickly and evenly by the use of 
a box with a perforated bottom is very good; but we would suggest the 
u^e of different boxes for the different sizes of seeds, to avoid the trouble 
that might ensue if the plugs worked out. They could be made 
without expense, from old Tomato or Baking Powder Cans. — Ed. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



41 



sown broadcast and worked in. Experience has 
proved that it is detrimental to the plants to put 
on the fertilizer and set them out immediately 
afterward.* 

On land that is very rich, twelve hundred- weight 
of fertilizer to the acre will raise a good crop, but 
generally it needs from fourteen to sixteen hundred- 
weight of the best grades of special cauliflower 
fertilizer. Some soils do well where fish-scrap 
and muriate of potash are used, putting on about 
fifteen hundred-weight of fish-scrap, and four or 
five hundred-weight of muriate of potash, to the 
acre. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

A few days before the time for transplanting, 
(in this district, Eastern Long Island, 41° north 
latitude, time for setting out main crop is between 
the 20th of June and 1st of August), the ground 
should be harrowed, and then a planker should be 
put on and the surface smoothed off nicely, so that 
the marking can be properly done. Mark out 
crosswise first, three feet apart, then lengthwise, 
three feet apart for Erfurt and Snowball, and all 
small growing kinds, and four feet apart for Algiers, 
and all large varieties ; it does not pay to put them 
closer. If it does not rain when the time comes 
for setting, and the ground is not moist enough, it 

* The reason of this is that the moisture of the soil starts the chemical 
properties of the fertilizer at once into action ; applying it two to three 
weeks previous to planting allows it to become well composted in the 
soil. — Ed, 



42 



HOW TO GROW 



is best to cart water and wet each place a little 
before setting the plant ; don't do it afterwards, as it 
leaves the ground hard and baked around the 
plants. Never use salt water, for it will kill them 
all. Generally, there is no need of carting water, 
for when the ground is properly worked, it will be 
moist enough to set out the young plants even in 
the driest time. As a rule, it does not pay to set 
out in the fore part of the day, and not till after 
three o'clock in the afternoon of a very hot day. 

CULTIVATION. 

The cultivation should always be level. The 
cultivator should be run quite deep the first and 
second times through, both ways, afterwards quite 
shallow. Cultivate as long as possible without 
breaking off the leaves. After that it would be an 
injury to them to continue cultivation, as their roots 
run over the ground, a good deal like corn roots. 
Nothing further needs to be done till they begin to 
head. 

TYING AND BLEACHING. 

Cauliflowers, if left to grow without covering, are 
not, as a rule, worth anything, but if covered at 
the proper time, will generally come out white and 
nice. The whiter they are, the more money they 
will bring in market. Commence to tie them up 
when the heads are about the size of a coffee cup, 
taking two rows at a time, and tying them with 
their leaves lapping one over the other till suffi- 
cient to shade them nicely from the sun, tucking 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



43 



the last leaf under; do not tie too tightly down 
upon the top of the head, as it will make them 
heat and become spotted. The tying should be 
done while the cauliflowers are dry. and during 
the warm part of the day, on account of the leaves 
being limber. This plan works well till cold 
weather comes, then use rye straw, gathering all 
the leaves that are fresh and green, up straight, 
and tying near the top. 

CUTTING OF CAULIFLOWERS. 

The cutting involves considerable care and 
judgment, and it must not be neglected, for money 
is often lost by not attending to the cutting at the 
right time. To examine them, part the leaves on 
one side (don't untie the top), and, if there are 
signs of starting or cracking, the head should be 
cut. The Erfurt varieties are harder and do not 
start or crack so soon. Care must be taken with 
them, not to leave them standing too long, for, if 
the weather is wet and warm, they are liable to get 
spotted, and that greatly spoils their sale, and 
sometimes makes them worthless. In cutting from 
the stump, leave about three layers of leaves fast 
to the head. A good, strong knife is needed for 
cutting and trimming, and it should have a blade 
about one foot in length. 

TBIMMING, 

Generally, the trimming can be done in the field 
where they grow. There should be a basket for 



44 



HOW TO GROW 



carrying out the trimmed heads, that will hold a 
bushel and a-half. and it should have raised han- 
dles. Sometimes it will pay to cart them into the 
barn before trimming (such is the case where the 
flowers are particularly fine), as they need drying 
off well before papering and packing. To trim 
them, take hold of the head near the butt with 
one hand, placing it upright against you. then, 
with a turning motion, cut clear around the head, 
leaving about an inch and a-half above the edge 
of the head. The butt should be cut off smooth, 
and there should be about two layers of leaves left 
round the head to protect it. Use for papering, 
soft, white wrapping paper. Sheets should be about 
twelve inches wide. Each is covered separately 
before packing. It pays to paper fine white heads. 

PACKING. 

In packing, use barrels. A flour barrel is the 
best, or barrels of that size. It does not pay to 
ship in larger ones unless they are to be sold at 
retail. The plan for packing generally followed 
is: commence laving the heads in. on their sides, 
and ail facing; in. filling in the centre with the 
small ones. Continue each layer this way until 
the barrel is full. Another plan is: commence 
putting in the heads upright, close together, then 
put on a layer of paper, then put in another layer 
of heads downward upon this paper, then again 
reverse until full. Pack as solid as possible. 
Have the barrels well filled, and cover with bag- 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



45 



ging, putting it under the top hoop and press down 
tightly, by driving down the hoop. 

CONCLUSION. 

It quite often happens that when it has been 
backward and dry weather, there will be some 
plants left that are not half headed when winter 
begins to set in. In order to save them and get 
the most money out of them, cut them off at the 
top of the ground, and place them in a cool cellar, 
standing them upright upon the bottom. They will 
grow quite a good deal, and can be kept so long that 
they will become much higher in price, bringing 
sometimes as high as twelve or fifteen dollars a 
barrel. 



HOW TO GROW 
CABBAGES SUCCESSFULLY. 



BY G. H. HOWARD. 

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF LAND FOR 
EARLY CABBAGES. 

The land for early cabbages should be a good 
retentive loam, as the nature of season for the 
heading of early cabbages is the opposite of that 
for late cabbages, that is, it is increasing in heat, 
while that for late is becoming cooler. They 
must have land that will hold moisture well. It 
is best to prepare the soil as far as possible in the 
fall. Plowing in the fall destroys everything green 
and leaves nothing for cut worms — which some- 
times are so troublesome — to live upon. The land 
should be plowed and harrowed, and if it is not 
rich should receive about a half-ton of coarse- 
ground bone to the acre. 

No time can be set for putting out the plants, as 
the seasons vary. It is best to keep the plants in 
the beds till there is no danger of snow storms. In 
the spring, when the time comes for putting in 
the plants, the land should again be plowed and 
harrowed and marked out with a horse marker, 
one that makes a good deep mark; then sow 
half a ton of guano in the drills to every acre; 

46 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 47 



then cover this with a cultivator with two cover- 
ing teeth in front and with a coverer and wheel 
behind, leaving a ridge a little above the level. 
The rows should be two feet and a half apart, and 
the plants should be set eighteen inches in the 
row, which admits of about eleven thousand five 
hundred plants to the acre. 

INSECTS. 

In raising early cabbage there is more trouble 
with insects than with late cabbages, as their 
growth is made at the season of the year when all 
kinds of insects come forth. The maggot is very 
plenty in some soils, and destroys some plants by 
eating the bark from the stem below ground. The 
best remedy for them is to put a spoonful of 
muriate of potash in a quart of water, and apply a 
gill of the solution around the stem of each plant. 
There is another remedy which is just as effectual, 
but which takes more time to apply, and that is 
a small handful of wood ashes put down around 
each stem. These are sure remedies if applied at 
the proper time, that is, before they have destroyed 
the bark and roots of the plant. Cut worms are 
oftentimes very troublesome with some, but if the 
land has been thoroughly plowed in the fall, and all 
the green weeds and grass killed and no vegetable 
manure is applied, there will be little or no trouble 
with them. A strip of tin about four inches wide 
and ten inches long, bent together and shoved 
down around each plant, will prevent all cut 



48 



HOW TO GROW 



worms from eating the plants.* There is also 
another insect that almost always attacks the 
plants after setting out, and that is the " Flea," 
generally called " Jack Bug," and which, if not 
driven away, will soon destroy them. The remedy 
for them is tobacco dust; it must be fine and 
strong, and quite freely used. Tobacco dust is a 
great preventive when used on growing plants in 
the bed or in the field, keeping the plants free from 
all bugs, lice and green worms. f 

CULTIVATION. 

Early cabbage needs cultivating at least once a 
week, while they are growing, keeping the ground 
loose until they begin to form heads. 

CUTTING- AND MARKETING. 

Cabbage, to look fresh and attractive, must be 
cut in the morning before the leaves wilt. They 
should be cut with some loose leaves on them, as 
it gives them a much better appearance. They can 
be shipped in crates or barrels. 

LATE CABBAGE. — SOIL AND PREPARATION. 

Late cabbages are generally raised as a second 
crop, and on land that has already been made rich 



*We would suggest that these strips could be cheaply procured by 
gathering up old fruit cans, and heating them sufficiently to loosen the 
solder. — Ed. 

f Where the tobacco dust is not easily obtainable, we would recom- 
mend the use of Land Plaster or Hammond's Slug Shot for this 
purpose. — Ed. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 49 

for the first crop, and therefore it does not matter 
so much about the soil, as it does for the early 
crop. Sandy loam is the best. Land that has 
been heavily manured for the spring crop, will 
need only about a half-ton of cabbage fertilizer to 
bring this crop on ; put it on broadcast and harrow 
in deep. 

For raising plants, refer to instructions for cauli- 
flower. It takes about four ounces of seed for an 
acre ; they will grow large enough to set in five 
weeks after sowing the seed. 

PLANTING AND CULTIVATION OF LATE CABBAGE. 

Nearly all varieties of late cabbage should be 
set out three feet by two, taking a little over seven 
thousand to set an acre. The largest growing kinds 
should be set three feet square, taking nearly five 
thousand to the acre. As the planting has to be 
done in midsummer, other ground should be pre- 
pared as soon as it can be put in order, so as to be 
ready when the rain comes. About the right date, 
considering all kinds, would be the twentieth of 
July for this section (41° north latitude). Cul- 
tivate and hoe thoroughly twice, and that is 
generally sufficient. 

MARKETING. 

The large or late kinds of cabbage should 
always be solid, and they should be cut without 
any superfluous leaves, when sent to market. It 
often happens that late cabbage is so plenty that 
4 



50 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



they will not pay to market, and it is then best to 
hold them until later in the winter, when they 
frequently sell for ten or twelve dollars a hundred. 
To keep them, pull and turn them heads down, 
upon the level, making a double line straight 
across the lot, then cover with a plow, turning two 
or three furrows over them, then pull the dirt up 
still more with a hoe; the covering should be 
sharp enough to turn water, and thus they will 
keep all right till taken out for marketing. 



VARIETIES OF CABBAGE. 



BY W. ATLEE BURPEE. 

It is not our desire to confuse the reader with 
a lengthy list of all known varieties of cabbage, 
We will briefly describe only those varieties that 
are best adapted to the climates of the United 
States, as there are many European varieties that 
are comparatively worthless here, 

We have arranged the varieties, as nearly as 
possible, in the order of maturity. 

EXTRA EARLY EXPRESS, 

" E x c e 1 s in 
earliness all the 
sorts we have 
grown; has the 
shape and ap- 
pearance of our 
well-known 
Etampes Cabbage, 
but is smaller 
and eight or ten 
days earlier; has 
but a few outside 
leaves, and, 
therefore, may 
be planted very close and yield large crops ; for 
forcing, can hardly be surpassed," 

51 




EXTRA EARLY EXPRESS CABBAGE. 



52 



HOW TO GROW 



Above is the description of The Express Cab- 
bage as sent out in France last year by the intro- 
ducers of The Etampes Cabbage, now so justly pop- 
ular. We imported the seed for trial and gratui- 
tous distribution among growers in various States. 
The reports received from the sample packets thus 
distributed have, with but few exceptions, been 
very favorable, and we are convinced that The 
Express is at least a week earlier than any other early 
cabbage. 

EARLIEST ETAMPES. 

Since first distri- 
buted, eight years 
ago, The Etampes 
has steadily 
gained in pop- 
ularity, until it is 
now acknowledged 
the earliest variety 
in cultivation, ex- 
cept the new Ex- 
press. The heads 
are oblong, rounded at the top, very solid and firm; 
while it seldom fails to head, under unfavorable 
circumstances, the heads are not apt to be so solid 
as the Jersey Wakefield. The heads are of medium 
size, and of very fine quality. This is identically 
the same cabbage catalogued by some seed dealers 
as " EARLIEST," with their names attached. 

EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD. 

Many experienced market gardeners consider 
this the very best " First Early Cabbage" It is cer- 




EXTRA EARLY ETAMPES CABBAGE. 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 53 



tainly deserving of its great popularity, and is 
grown for market more extensively than any other 
early cabbage. It heads up remarkably hard and 
solid; the heads are pyramidal in shape, generally 
pointed at the end, and, having few outside leaves, 
the plants can be set close together. The heads 




EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD CABBAGE. 



are of excellent quality, and of large size for so 
early a cabbage. 

EARLY WIKNTNGSTADT. 

A well-known and very popular early variety, 
in season very close to the Wakefield ; heads large, 
decidedly conical, leaves bright, glossy green ; 
heads solid and hard, even in summer. This is 
a very sure-heading variety, valuable not only for 
early use but also for winter cabbage. 



54 



HOW TO GROW 



EARLY DWARF FLAT DUTCH. 

An excellent second-early variety, producing 
fine large heads, after the early varieties have dis- 
appeared. Highly valued, both for its tine quality 
and ability to resist heat. The heads are very 
solid, broad and round, flattened on top : tender 
and fine grained. 




EARLY WTS"5TN"GSTADT CABBAGE. 

EAELY SUMMER. 

This variety is deservedly popular with market 
gardeners. As shown in the illustration, it forms 
large, solid, round, flattened, compact heads, of ex- 
cellent quality. The heads average over double 
the size of the Jersey \Vakefleld. while i: maturc-s 
only ten or twelve days later. The leaves turn 
into the head so completely that about twelve 
thousand plants may be set to the acre, making a 
very profitable crop. This variety is also known 
by the name of Newark Early Flat Dutch. 

PEERLESS EAELY. 

This cabbage is selected from a cross made by a 
Massachusetts market gardener, who claims it to 




NEW PEERLESS EARLY CABBAGE. 



56 



HOW TO GROW 



be superior to Henderson's Early Summer, and 
says of it : " Nearly equaling Jersey Wakefield in 
earliness, and forming very much larger heads, 
(often weighing more than twelve pounds apiece). 
Very round and uniform in shape and general 
appearance, fine grained, small, short stump, with 
few loose leaves, thus allowing them to be set out 
nearer together, and increasing the number of 
plants per acre ; it also has the very valuable 
quality of remaining, after fully matured, without 
cracking or bursting, much longer than any other 
variety." 

THE VANDERGAW. 

This new cabbage, introduced in 1888 for the 
first time, was procured two years since, at ten 
dollars per pound, from a famous Long Island 
Market gardener, whose name it bears. Mr. Van- 
dergaw has been selecting this variety for many 
years, and has sold the seed annually to neighbor- 
ing growers of cabbage for the New York market, 
as high as $20 per pound, and never less than 
$10 per pound. Last year we obtained a few 
pounds at the latter price, expressly to distribute 
for trial among cabbage growers throughout the 
country. From all parts comes unanimous praise, 
and we could fill many pages with strong testi- 
monials. The Vandergaw forms large solid heads, 
much larger than Early Summer, and almost as 
early. The quality is very fine, and, like the 
famous Surehead cabbage, it is remarkable for its 
certainty to head. The heads are so large and 



58 



HOW TO GROW 



solid that it is equally as good to grow late, for 
winter use. 

FOTTLER'S BRUNSWICK (SHORT STEM). 

This is considered the earliest and the best of 
the large, hard-heading Drumheads. It heads 
shortly after the Early Flat Dutch, and is most 




excellent for second early or summer, and is also 
admirably adapted for fall and winter. Heads 
often weigh from twenty to thirty pounds each ; 
very hard and firm, ripen in eighty-five days, and 
quality very fine. 

EARLY BLEICHFIELD GIANT. 

It matures as early as the celebrated Fottler's 
Brunswick. It is a short-stemmed sort, with very 
large and solid dark -green heads, and is very 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 



59 



reliable for heading. Owing to the great solidity 
of the heads, they remain in use for a long period; 
they are very tender and of excellent flavor. 

ALL SEASONS. 

A new variety that is becoming quite popular. 
The heads are of large size, round, flattened at the 
top, and are ready to market nearly as early as 
Early Summer, while they are hard and solid, and 
keep well for winter cabbage. 




EARLY DEEP-HEAD CABBAGE. 

EARLY DEEP-HEAD. 

This new cabbage originated with a market 
gardener of Essex County, Mass., in which section 



60 



HOW TO GROW 



it has already become popular, and is highly 
esteemed. It is a very desirable second early 
variety. The heads grow to a large size, are 
hard, solid, and, as its name signifies, are deeper 
through than ordinary stocks of flat-headed second 
early cabbages. It is fully as early as Fottler's 
Brunswick, while the heads are as large round and 
considerably deeper. It is a valuable variety to 
follow the Early Summer ; the heads are larger, 
being ten to twelve inches in diameter. It is very 
reliable in heading up firm and solid, the outer 
leaves turning in well. 




BURPEE'S SUREHEAD. 

This famous cabbage, first named and introduced 
by us eleven years ago, has steadily gained in 
popular favor, until to-day it is considered by 
many growers to be the very best cabbage for main 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 61 

crops. Hardly any other variety can approach 
the Surehead in fine quality and uniform relia- 
bility in forming solid, firm heads, of good size, 
even in unfavorable seasons. Burpee's Surehead 
Cabbage is the result of hybridizing and many 
years' continued selection by a most experienced 
market gardener, who, until we obtained the stock, 
eleven years since, had never supplied any seeds- 
man. It produces large, round, flattened heads, 
of the Flat Dutch type, and is remarkable for its 
certainty to head ; it is all head, and always sure 
to head. The heads are remarkably uniform, very 
hard, firm, and fine in texture, and ordinarily 
weigh from ten to fifteen pounds each. It is very 
sweet flavored, has scarcely any loose leaves, keeps 
well, is good for shipping, and is just the variety 
and quality to suit market gardeners, farmers and 
all lovers of good cabbage. 

DANISH BALL HEAD. 

While in Denmark in the summer of 1886, we 
discovered a variety of cabbage called, from the 
shape of the heads, Ball Head, which the Danes 
prize so highly that they grow it almost exclu- 
sively for winter cabbage, and annually export 
large quantities. It has been selected and per- 
fected for more than fifty years by the Danish 
gardeners. The heads are hard as they can be, 
round, of medium size, of extra choice quality, 
very fine grained, and remarkably good keepers. 



62 



HOW TO GROW 



LARGE LATE FLAT DUTCH. 

A low-growing variety : heads large, bluish- 
green, round, solid, broad, and flat on top : of very 




LARGE LATE FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE. 

fine quality. The old popular variety for winter 
cabbage. 

LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD. 

This is similar in most respects to the Late Flat 
Dutch, but the heads are more rounded on top : it 
is also generally longer in stem. For this and 
other reasons, we recomm'end to market gardeners 
either Burpee's Short-stem Drumhead or Louis- 
ville Drumhead, as preferable. 

LOUISVILLE DRUMHEAD. 

A very fine, short-stemmed strain of Large Late 
Drumhead Cabbage, highly esteemed by the mar- 
ket gardeners of the Southwest, where it is said to 



CABBAGES AXD CAULIFLOWERS. 



63 



stand hot weather better than most other sorts. 
The heads are of good size, round, flattened on 




the top, but not so thick through as Burpee's 
Sure-head. 

BURPEE'S SHORT-STEM DRUMHEAD. 

The New Short-stem Drumhead has a very 
short stem and grows very compactly — the leaves 
all turning in to form the head, with very few 
loose leaves — thus allowing the plants to be set 
close together. The heads are very large, extra 
hard, solid, round, flattened on the top ; they grow 
very uniform in size and shape, and present the 
handsome appearance well depicted in the above 
illustration. The heads frequently attain twenty 
or thirty pounds in weight, and are always of the 
finest quality. For reliability of heading this 



64 



HOW TO GROW 



variety is, from long-continued selection, also 
remarkable. 




burpee's short-stem drumhead cabbage. 




FILDERKRAUT CABBAGE. 

FILDERK RATJT. 

A great favorite in Germany, and needs only to 
become known to be equally popular in America. 
The Germans use it largely in the manufacture of 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEES. 



65 



"kraut." The pointed, conical heads attain a 
large size; can be used medium early, but are 
specially valuable for winter use. The heads are 
very hard and solid ; they feel nearly as hard as 
marble, and are * of excellent quality, pointed or 
conical in shape, with a peculiar twist at the top. 
It is remarkable for its certainty to head ; it is very 
hardy and thrives well everywhere. 

GREEN GLAZED. 

A glossy pea-green, late variety, quite popular 
in the Southern States, as it resists the attacks of 
bugs, etc. 




MARBLEHEAD MAMilOTH CABBAGE. 



MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH. 

Of enormous size, single heads often weighing 
thirty to thirty -five pounds each, and sometimes 
reaching to fifty pounds. The flavor and quality, 
of course, are not so good as in smaller varieties ; 
neither are the heads very uniform, therefore we 
cannot recommend it for general use. 

5 



66 



HOW TO GROW 



EARLY PARIS SAVOY. 

After careful in- 
spection, in France 
and Germany, of 
all th e ne w er 
strains of Savoy 
Cabbages, we pro- 
nounce this as 
probably the most 
valuable. It ma- 
tures very early, 
the heads are firm, solid, beautifully crimpled, and 
of finest quality. 

EARLY DWARF ULM SAVOY. 

One of the earliest and sweetest of the Savoys. 
Small, solid, round heads, with small, thick, fleshy 
leaves, of fine, deep-green color. 




EARLY PARIS SAVOY CABBAGE. 



PERFECTION DRUMHEAD SAVOY. 

Heads large and 
very finely curled; 
short stalk and com- 
pact grower ; an ex- 
cellent keeper. Par- 
takes of the size of 
the Drumhead, with 
the curled leaves 
and fine flavor of the 

PERFECTION DRUMHEAD SAVOY CABBAGE. SaVOV. Fai* SUpC- 

rior to the ordinary imported Drumhead Savoy. 




CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 67 



Every one should know that the Savoy approaches 
nearer to the delicious richness of the cauliflower 
than any other cabbage. 

EARLY BLOOD-RED ERFURT. 

Heads hard, solid, and of an intense blood-red 
color. Very early, and also, if sown late, makes a 
good winter cabbage; of fine quality, and par- 
ticularly valuable for pickling. 

LARGE RED DRUMHEAD (IMPROVED RED DUTCH). 

Larger heads than the Red Dutch. Heads round 
in shape, of deep color, and remarkably hard and 
solid. Either for pickling or table use there is no 
better variety of red cabbage. 



VARIETIES OF CAULIFLOWER. 



BY W. ATLEE BURPEE. 



EXTRA EARLY DWARF ERFURT. 

Remarkable for reliability in heading : scarcely 
a plant fails to produce a good head. Very dwarf, 




EARLIEST DWARF ERFURT CAULIFLOWER. 



with solid, pure white heads, of superior quality. 
If planted the first of March, heads nine to twelve 
inches in diameter will be ready early in June, in 
which month the entire crop can be marketed. 

LARGE EARLY WHITE ERFURT. 

An excellent market variety, with large, com- 
pact, white heads. We do not consider it so reli- 
able, however, as the preceding. 

68 



CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 69 



EXTRA EARLY PARIS AND HALF-EARLY PARIS, OR NONPAREIL, 

are both good and generally reliable varieties, but 
of late years have been nearly superseded by the 
Selected Erfurt and Snowball. 

EARLY SNOWBALL. 

Very early and reliable in heading. Of dwarf 
habit, with very short outer leaves, allowing it to 
be planted close together. We can recommend 
this variety to gardeners as one of the very best 
early cauliflowers. 




EARLY SNOWBALL CAULIFLOWER. 



BURPEE'S BEST EARLY CAULIFLOWER. 

-First introduced by us in 1886, this grand 
variety is an improved type of the Early Dwarf 
Erfurt, which has attained its present perfection 
after sixteen years' intelligent selection by one 
grower, and is remarkable both for its extra easi- 
ness and certainty to head — in these two most im- 
portant features we know no other strain that can 



70 



HOW TO GROW 



equal it. Of dwarf, compact growth, with short 
stalk, it bears close planting, and the leaves, grow- 
ing upright, naturally protect the heads. The 
large, handsome heads, measuring eight to ten 
inches across, are pure, snowy white, very close, 
compact and of the finest quality. So extremely 
solid and deep, nearly globe shaped, are the heads, 
that they weigh heavier than most, if not all other, 
cauliflowers of the same size. An experienced 




Burpee's best early. 



grower of cauliflower writes of Burpee s Best Early 
as follows : — 

" It is extremely short stemmed, has compara- 
tively short leaves (making it especially fit for 
forcing), while the head is large, smooth, solid and 
beautifully white. It is equally adapted for grow- 
ing under glass and in the open ground. By 
forcing early in spring, and planting out a set of 
plants every fortnight or so, we can confine our- 



CABBAGES AXD CAULIFLOWERS. 



71 



selves to this variety alone and yet have a supply 
as long as it is possible to have cauliflowers. It is 
of very quick growth, and will yield heads fit for 
use in about two months after the setting out of 
the plants." 

ALGIERS. 

An extra fine variety, is generally sure to head, 
and one of the best for late use ; the heads remain 
firm and solid for a long time. This variety is 
largely grown on Long Island, and heads well 
even in locations where the Snowball sometimes 
fails. 

VEITSCH'S AUTUMN GLiXT. 

The heads are beautifully white, large, firm and 
compact, and being thoroughly protected by the 
foliage, remain long fit for use. 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 



DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING AND PREPARING FOR THE TABLE, 
Furnished by Mr. S. J. Soyer, Chief Cook at the Royal Danish Court. 

The cauliflower (Lat. : Brassica oleracea botrytis; 
Fr. : Chou-fleur) is one of our most valuable 
vegetables. It is of a milder, more delicate taste 
than any other species of cabbage, and of a much 
greater nutritive value. 

STEWED CAULIFLOWER. 

(Cauliflower, butter, salt, sugar, 2^ oz. of flour, 
half a pint of cream, one-eighth of the soup from 
the cauliflower.) 

The cauliflower is cut into pieces, boiled 
slightly in salted water, taken out of the soup and 
put on a colander to drain. The butter and flour 
are baked together and thinned with the cream, 
and about the quantity of the soup above stated. 
The cauliflower is put into this sauce and again 
brought to a boil, whereupon it is served warm. 

CAULIFLOWER AU NATUREL. 

The stem of white, solid cauliflower heads is cut 
off, an inch from the head, which with a penknife 
is well cleaned of the outer hard membrane, 
taking care to preserve the head as whole as 
possible; the head is then well rinsed in cold 

72 



CAULIFLOWERS 



AND CABBAGES 



73 



water, to which is added some vinegar to drive out 
larvae or the like : it is then boiled in salt water 
until it is tender, when it is taken up to drain off 
on a sieve or colander. It is to be served high on 
a napkin, with melted butter, common sauce for 
vegetables, Dutch sauce, veloute or maitre d'hotel 
sauce. 

N. B. — For cauliflowers and vegetables generally 
the sauce ought to be rather thick, as it is impos- 
sible ro have the vegetables run perfectly dry 
when they are to be served warm. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

(Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, dotter of egg, 
butter, a tablespoonful of cream, half a pint of sauce 
for vegetables, potato pure — that is 3 bouillon thick- 
ened with mashed potatoes and strained.) 

Both cauliflower and sprouts are to be well 
cleaned, boiled separately in salt water and served 
on the pure, the cauliflower in the center, and the 
sprouts around it for garnishing. The sauce, to 
which is added the egg dotters, butter and cream, 
is poured hot over the cauliflower and sprouts. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH PARMESAN CHEESE, 
{Choux-fteiirs an gratin.) 

(Three cauliflower-heads, salt, pepper, grated 
bread, two eggs, \ Bb grated Parmesan cheese, 
\ Bb grated Swiss cheese, one pint white sauce.) 

The cauliflowers are boiled rare, taken out and 
drained off. AVhite sauce and spices are boiled 



74 



HOW TO COOK 



thick, and the egg dotters and cheese mixed with 
it. The cauliflowers are cut to pieces and put in 
layers with sauce between, on a dish or silver sauce- 
pan, are sprinkled with grated bread and cheese, 
put fifteen minutes into a hot oven to be browned 
with a salamander. To be served as an independent 
dish. 

In the place of " white sauce " butter and flour 
may be baked together and thinned with sweet 
milk. 

CAULIFLOWER A LA LOUIS QUATORZE. 
(Chouz-fleurs Uuv%$ & la Louis XIV.) 

(Cauliflower, new-made butter, grated nutmeg, 
bouillon.) 

The cauliflower is to be repeatedly washed in 
lukewarm water, boiled with bouillon and a little 
nutmeg, drained, and then shaken with the butter 
over a fire. To be served as soon as the butter is 
melted. A very fine dish. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH OIL-SAUCE. 

{Choux-fieurs en, mayonaise.) 

(Two heads of cauliflower, salt, pepper, sweet oil, 
estragon, chopped parsley, vinegar, oil-sauce.) 

The cauliflowers are to be plucked apart and 
the stemlets cut off at proper lengths. Boil in 
water, and salt when nearly done. Drain off and 
let cool, and then marinate for an hour with oil, 
vinegar, spices, estragon and parsley. Drain on a 
sieve. To be served high on a dish and oil sauce 
gradually to be poured over. If desired, the dish 
might be garnished with carrots or some other 
suitable vegetable. 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 



75 



To the preceding directions by Mr. Soyer may 
properly be added the following : — 

CAULIFLOWER PICKLES. 

Clean and rinse thoroughly large, well devel- 
oped and pure white cauliflowers. Divide into 
pieces of proper size ; throw into boiling water ; 
boil well, and when tender drain off on a sieve ; 
put into stone jars, not quite full. Simmer for a 
quarter of an hour cider vinegar enough to fill 
the jars, adding a little mace, and suspending in 
the vinegar a bag of sundry spices, to suit your 
taste. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the 
cauliflowers, filling the jars to the rim. 

Cauliflowers are sometimes used, with fine effect, 
for garnishing various dishes. 



HOW TO COOK AND PREPARE CABBAGE. 



Lat. : Brassica oleracea capitata. Fr. : Chou 
blanc. 

BROWNED CABBAGE HEAD. 

(A cabbage head, butter, flour, sugar, salt, 
spices.) 

,The outer leaves of the cabbage are removed 
and the stalk cut out of the head ; the empty 
space thus made is to be filled with butter, sugar 
and spices. The cabbage is tied round with 
twine and baked with butter, in a covered vessel, 
over a slow fire, until it is tender and yellowish- 
brown, care to be taken that it does not singe. 



78 



HOW TO COOK 



When done, the sauce is thickened with a little 
flour and poured over the cabbage. To be served 
with a meat dish. 

STEWED CABBAGE. 

The cabbage is cut to pieces, boiled until nearly 
done, in salt water, and then stewed, the same as 
cauliflower. 

CABBAGE WITH FORCED MEAT. 
{Choux Farcis.) 

(A large cabbage head, butter, onion, grated 
bread, forced meat, bacon, butter-sauce.) 

The cabbage head is to be boiled slightly and 
the stalk cut out. On each leaf is spread a layer 
of forced meat. The cabbage head is then, as far as 
possible, given its original shape, tied round with 
twine, put into a saucepan with slices of bacon, 
some onion and a little butter, and baked in an 
oven until yellowish-brown ; it is then cut into 
slices, which are stewed a little while with butter- 
sauce and grated bread. 

If preferred, the cabbage and the forced meat 
may be put in alternate layers in a pan covered 
on bottom and sides with thin slices of bacon, and 
be thus baked in an oven. 

FILLED CABBAGE. 
(Chou en Surprise.) 

Two hours. (A large cabbage head, twelve 
roasted chestnuts, six fieldfares — Turdus pilaris — 
six small sausages, bouillon, butter-sauce, one ounce 
of melted marrow). 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 



77 



The cabbage head is treated as the preceding, a 
sufficient space being dug out to give room for the 
fieldfares, sausages and chestnuts. Tie and boil 
in bouillon. Butter-sauce is prepared, to be mixed 
with the cabbage soup and the melted and strained 
marrow. This composed sauce to be boiled into 
such thickness that it will adhere to the spoon. To 
be poured over the cabbage when this is to be 
served. 

A more plain preparation of filled cabbage, 
simply using forced meat, slightly spiced with 
grated nutmeg or other spices, instead of the field- 
fares, etc., and to be served with butter-sauce, is a 
very popular dish in Denmark. 

CABBAGE AU GRATIN. 
{Chou au gratin.) 

(Cabbage, grated bread (rye or wheat), white 
bread, butter, ten or twelve eggs, sausage, lamb's 
breast and white sauce, bouillon, pepper and meat 

jelly). 

The cabbage is boiled tender with bouillon and 
a little pepper, drained off, chopped fine and 
mixed over a fire with six eggs and grated bread 
until it makes a stiff dough, which is then mixed 
with fine, thin slices of boiled lamb's breast and 
sausage. To be made into dome shape, but not 
high, on a dish, and to be covered with thin slices 
of white bread overpoured with beaten egg dotters 
and melted butter, and then baked in a suitably 
warm oven. When it is to be served, a central 



78 



HOW TO COOK 



slice of bread on the top is removed and some 
melted meat jelly poured on. 

CABBAGE DOLMAS. 
[Dolmas de chou a la turgus.) 

(Cabbage, forced beef or mutton, butter, salt, 
pepper, rice, bouillon and soya.) 

The rice is half boiled with bouillon. The cab- 
bage leaves are separated, the coarse ribs cut away 
and the leaves slightly boiled, whereupon equal 
parts of the rice and seasoned forced meats are 
mixed and a spoonful put on each leaf, which is 
then rolled firmly together and folded over. These 
dolmas are set side by side, single layer, in a liber- 
ally buttered saucepan, and sprinkled with spices ; 
a little bouillon may be added. To be boiled with 
short soup and frequently thinned, for two hours. 
When finished, a little soya is added to the sauce. 
If desired, the sauce may be thickened with a few 
egg dotters and flavored with lemon juice. 

CABBAGE GALLOPS. 

Steam-roasted lamb's breast or mutton is cut into 
small pieces and served in alternate layers with 
browned cabbage, for which directions are already 
given. To be poured over with Madeira sauce. 

SAURKBAUT. 
(Fr. chou croute.) 

Saurkraut is by no means, if rightly made and 
prepared for the table, the vulgar, appetite-turning 
article of diet that prejudice has made it. If fair 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 79 

American readers will oblige the writer of the 
following directions by giving them a test, if only 
for curiosity's sake, they will probably find that 
even saurkraut may be made palatable. It has, 
besides, advantages over cabbage used in any other 
way, being more healthful, aiding, by means of its 
lactic acid, the digestion of meat and albuminous 
substances. For mariners and other people who, 
for longer periods, must fare principally on salt 
meat, it is almost indispensable as a preventive 
against scorbutic diseases. 

HOW TO MAKE SAURKRAUT. 

The outer leaves and stalks are removed from 
fine white cabbage heads, which are then cut very 
fine. For preparation of a larger quantity, a kind 
of plane is used for shredding the cabbage. A well- 
cleaned and scalded wooden tub or keg is covered 
on bottom and sides with leaven or a dough made 
of rye flour and vinegar. The shredded cabbage 
is put in layers in this vessel and sprinkled with 
some salt, caraway seed, barberries and vinegar, 
each layer; sometimes dill (Anethum graveolens) 
is added. The contents are packed firmly, by the 
aid of a wooden pestle, until the juice appears from 
the cabbage. A cover is put on the keg or tub 
and pressed down by a weight, whereupon the 
vessel is put in a warm place where the cabbage 
will ferment and turn sour, generally, in the course 
of a week or two. The acid formed by the fer- 
mentation will prevent any further change of the 



80 



HOW TO COOK 



cabbage, which will keep for a very long time, 
after being frozen. If any mold should have 
formed before the freezing, it must be carefully 
removed. 

MAGDEBURG SAURKRAUT. 

Solid, white cabbage heads are shredded as 
above, the longer and finer the shreds, the prettier 
it is considered. The shredded cabbage is mixed 
with salt, to taste, about one pound to each fifty 
pounds of cabbage. Some leaven is put round 
the edge of the bottom of a keg or barrel in which 
wine or spirit has been kept, and the cabbage put 
in and packed firmly, mixing in some green grape 
stems, if such can be had, whereupon the keg is 
placed in a warm room for eight days, to cause 
fermentation. If desired, dill, barberries and cara- 
way seed may be added, the same as above, per- 
haps, also, a few juniper berries, all mixed with 
the cabbage. The loose bottom or cover is then put 
on and fastened, and the keg placed in the cellar, 
where it is frequently turned upside down ; this 
turning upside down is essential. When cabbage 
is taken out for use, the cover must be put on 
again and kept down on the cabbage by a heavy 
weight. 

If it is desired to avoid the trouble of turning 
the keg, a wooden cock may be applied a few 
inches from the bottom. After the course of a few 
days, the pickle that has formed may then be 
drawn off and poured on the top of the cabbage 
again. By a repetition ol this process, the object 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 81 



of the turning upside down is attained, which is, 
to cause a circulation of the pickle (brine) and 
secure an even distribution of the acid. 

QUICKLY PREPARED SAURKRAUT. 
{Choucroute improvisie.) 

(Cabbage, onion, butter, bouillon, vinegar, sugar, 
salt, cloves.) 

The cabbage is to be cut in long, thin shreds, 
and to be fried with butter and onion. Bouillon 
and a couple of cloves are added, and the cabbage, 
with these ingredients, boiled in short soup until 
tender. 

Note. — Savoy cabbage k still better for this pur- 
pose than the ordinary white cabbage, being finer 
and milder in taste. 

BROWNED SAURKRAUT. 

(Rinsed and drained saurkraut, butter, flour, 
bouillon, brown syrup, and pepper-corns.) 

The cabbage is browned with butter over a slow 
fire ; bouillon and pepper are added, with which 
it is boiled till it is tender ; after thickening the 
juice with flour and butter baked together on a 
frying-pan, and a little brown syrup, it is put to 
boil again. To be served along with a meat dish, 
or as an independent course, garnished with 
Scotch collops, little sausages, etc., like the fol- 
lowing. 



6 



82 



HOW TO COOK 



STEWED SAURKRAUT. 

(Saurkraut, butter, flour, bouillon, chopped 
browned onion ? salt.) 

The cabbage is boiled in water, the butter 
melted, and the flour mixed and baked with it ; 
bouillon is added, when again it is brought to a 
boil. The cabbage, which in the meantime has 
been drained off, is put into a saucepan and the 
sauce poured over it. It is to be well stirred, 
brought to a boil, the onion and a little salt added, 
and it is then ready to be served. 

Note. — The cabbage may also be boiled with 
some butter and water, and the juice (soup) be 
thickened with flour and a little good bouillon, 
spices and sugar to be added to taste. To be 
served along with pig cutlets, roasted hazel grouse, 
hare, or the like. 

stewed saurkraut with cream. 

(Saurkraut, butter, flour, two egg dotters, cream, 
bouillon, salt, sugar.) 

The cabbage is rinsed in cold water, drained, 
boiled slowly, with butter and a little sugar ; and 
after adding bouillon boiled ready and thickened 
with baked butter and flour, cream and egg dotters 
are to be added, after which no boiling must take 
place. Salt to taste. To be served along with 
meat dishes. 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 83 



STEWED RED CABBAGE. 

(Five heads of red cabbage, salt, pepper, a whisk 
of parsley with a little thyme and sweet bay, a 
tablespoonful of sugar, two onions, six apples, 
a quarter of a pint of red wine, a quarter of a 
pound of butter.) 

The exterior leaves and the stalk and thick ribs 
of the cabbage are removed, and the heads then 
quartered. The onions and apples are peeled, and 
the latter cored, and both cut small and then 
stewed with the cabbage, a piece of butter, sugar, 
spices, and the whisk of herbs, in a covered sauce- 
pan, for four or five hours. When the cabbage is 
done, the whisk is taken out, and the wine and 
a piece of butter added. To be served along with 
meats. 

STEWED SAVOY CABBAGE. 

(Savoy cabbage, butter, nutmeg, bouillon, a little 
sugar, salt.) 

The outer leaves are removed, the head cut 
through and the stalk taken out. The cabbage is 
then washed, given a boil in salt water, and then 
drained on a colander, rinsed with boiling water, 
and pressed dry ; then stewed with butter, bouillon, 
a little sugar and nutmeg. 

Savoy cabbage may, upon the whole, be pre- 
pared in the various ways specified for ordinary 
white head cabbage. 



84 



HOW TO COOK 



CAULIFLOWER SOUP. 

{For Jive persons.) 

(2J quarts bouillon, li pint milk. 2 or 3 cauli- 
flower heads. 2J ounces butter. 1J ounce flour, 
sugar, salt.) 

The cauliflowers are cleaned and boiled almost 
ready, taken out and put on a sieve, and the soup 
is preserved. The butter and flour are baked 
together, and with the milk, bouillon, sugar and 
salt added to the decoction from the cauliflowers. 
These are cut into proper pieces, and put into the 
soup, which is subjected to a quick boil, and then 
served with bread dumplings : crumbs of white 
bread moistened with milk, melted butter, dotter 
of eggs, and the whites beaten to a stiff froth : the 
mass rolled into small balls and boiled until they 
float. 

CABBAGE SOUP. 
(For twleve persons; three hours.) 

(3J quarts bouillon, a large cabbage head. 2i 
ounces butter, 2 J ounces flour. 3 or 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of syrup, a few pepper-corns. Scotch collops, 
or meat sausages.) 

AH green leaves and the stalk are removed from 
the cabbage, which is cut into small pieces to be 
fried in butter, adding some bouillon and syrup, 
and boiling slowly, taking care that it does not 
burn on the bottom. Afterwards, more bouillon 
and pepper-corns are added, and the boiling kept 
up until the cabbage is tender. In another sauce- 
pan are baked flour and butter, with which the 



CAULIFLOWERS AND CABBAGES. 85 

soup is thickened. To be served with Scotch col- 
lops, or with sausages, cut into slices. 

For persons with whom the cabbage does not 
agree, it is advisable to boil the cabbage in water 
before it is cut to pieces and used. 

PLAIN CABBAGE SOUP. 
( Very popular in Denmark.) 

Boil fresh, lean bacon, or the back of a pig, and 
skim until the soup is clear; then put into the 
boiling soup a quartered or smaller cut cabbage, 
from which the outer loose leaves and the stalk 
have been cut away, and boil until meat and cab- 
bage are both very tender. Various vegetables 
are put in to boil with the cabbage, as fine, sweet 
carrots, potatoes, leeks, parsnip and parsley root, 
and some celeriac ; salt to taste, and a few pepper- 
corns. The meat and the cabbage soup are to be 
served together. 

This is to many persons a favorite meal, and it 
is, at the same time, cheap and nourishing. 

To improve the taste and increase the digesti- 
bility of cabbage, it must always be boiled very 
tender. 



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